Garden Checklist for April
April is the first month for serious outdoor gardening! Here's a list of tasks to help get you off to a good start.
•Plant spinach, peas, onions, shallots, garlic and turnips as early in the month as soil and weather conditions permit.
•Seed bare spots in the lawn early in the month.
•Prune ornamental grasses.
•Prune your roses, except the climbing varieties.
•Remove the winter mulch from roses after the middle of the month.
•Follow Extension's fruit spray schedules. (Pay careful attention to the bud development of your tree.)
•Divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials.
•Rake winter debris from your lawn before mowing.
•Apply dormant oil sprays for insect control when the temperature will be above freezing for at least 24 hours.
•Start celosia, cosmos, marigold, annual phlox and zinnia seeds indoors at mid month.
•Repot your houseplants; begin fertilizing them.
•Are those swarming insects termites or ants? Can you tell the difference?
•Apply pre-emergent crabgrass killer when forsythia is in full bloom.
•Fertilize established trees and shrubs.
•Harden-off or condition transplants prior to moving them to the garden. Plant bedding plants of cabbage, broccoli and collards the third week.
•Direct seed beets, carrots, leaf lettuce, mustard greens, bok choy and radishes around the middle of the month.
•Plant strawberries, rhubarb, asparagus, and small fruit plants as early in the month as possible.
•Plant gladiolus corms.
•Plant daylilies, delphiniums, painted daisies and phlox.
•Remove spent flowers from spring-flowering bulbs. Fertilize with 5-10-10 at 2 pounds per 100 square feet.
•Sharpen the lawn mower blade. Mow the lawn no shorter than 2½ inches.
•Sow hardy annual flowers like calendula, clarkia, larkspur and sweet pea.
•Turn the compost pile and keep it moist.
•Protect well-developed strawberry buds from frost injury by applying straw mulch when freezing temperatures are forecast.
•Start eggplant, pepper and tomato seeds indoors at the middle of the month.
•Do not fertilizer newly planted trees or shrubs.
•Have a soil sample analyzed.
•Prune early flowering shrubs immediately after flowering and before new growth begins.
And, enjoy this first full month of spring!
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Planting Cool-Season Vegetables
Now is the best time to get out in your garden and plant cool-season vegetable crops. A cool-season crop is defined as a vegetable that grows best with temperatures of 60 to 65 degrees F. Cool-season crops can tolerate light to moderate frosts, but are usually intolerant of high summer temperatures. Direct seeding of most cool-season crops can be done with the exceptions of broccoli and cabbage which will do better started as transplants.
Vegetables that can be direct seeded as early in April as soil conditions include onion, leek peas, and spinach. Wait until mid-April to direct seed beets, carrots, Swiss chard, lettuce, kale, collards, kohlrabi, mustard greens, radish, rutabaga, and turnip. Plant your broccoli, cabbage and early cauliflower transplants after April 15.
Covering the leafy vegetables with row cover fabric will protect them from cabbage worms and flea beetles that will soon be finding our gardens.
Although they're not seeds, it's also time to plant seed potatoes.
Plant parsnip seeds in May. Plant Chinese cabbage seeds in late May.
Part of the information for this came from Iowa State University.
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Planting a Tree
Planting is one of the most important cultural practices that determines success or failure of tree establishment. Transplanting is not successful until the tree returns to a normal growth rate. This transplant recovery period normally takes three years, but may range from 2-8 years. To get the most satisfactory performance from trees, attention must be given to planting details. Using quality plants and following good cultural practices such as watering, pruning and fertilizing will not compensate for poor planting techniques or poor plant selection.
The usual planting seasons are spring and fall. However, container-grown trees and some balled and burlapped trees can be transplanted anytime during the growing season if proper watering practices are followed.
General planting steps are as follows:
1. Measure the height and diameter of the rootball or root spread.
2. Dig the hole 2-3" shallower than rootball or root depth. The hole diameter should be 2 to 3 times the diameter of the rootball or root spread.
3. Set the tree on undisturbed solid ground in the center of the area. The tree should be planted 2-3" higher than it was in the nursery due to Ohio's heavy clay soils.
4. Backfill with a mixture of two parts soil from the planting hole and one part organic matter.
5. Use water to pack or settle the soil around the rootball to secure the plant.
6. Form a saucer-shaped depression around the tree so that water is directed down through the roots or rootball rather than around the rootball.
7. Water thoroughly. Add soil to sunken areas and smooth. Reshape the saucer in a few days after the soil surface dries.
8. Mulch with 2 to 4 inches of mulch such as woodchips or compost.
9. Trees should be pruned to remove broken, damaged or dead branches. Be careful not to remove any more than one fourth of the leaf-bearing surface at a single time. The natural shape of the plant should be retained.
For more information, check out : Selecting and Planting Trees.
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Violets
There are three commonly grown species in the violet family. Wild violets which have a sweet smell but are invasive and should be kept to a natural or woodland garden. These often appear as weeds in the lawn area. They are perennial and spread rapidly. Violas look like tiny pansies. They also come back year after year, but from seed. They will tend to travel around the garden, but are not aggressive and are charming wherever they appear. Pansies are the third common violet. They are not reliably hardy, even though they will come through some years. They are tolerant of frost and perform well in cool weather, so they can be planted very early in the spring. They do not perform well in the heat of summer, and are usually replaced with summer annuals. Violas and pansies make a great accompaniment to daffodils and tulips for a spectacular spring show.
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Adding Organic Matter to Garden Soil
Adding organic matter in the form of leaf humus, composted manures or humus from your compost pile will increase the quality and quantity of your harvest. Organic matter spread to a two-inch depth and then thoroughly worked into the soil prior to planting is a good recommendation. How much is necessary to get that two-inch depth? Let's use as an example a garden that is 20 feet wide and 25 feet long. First, calculate the area by multiplying 20 x 25 to give 500 square feet. Next, divide 2 inches by 12 inches to convert inches to feet to give 0.17 feet (0.17 feet = 2 inches). Next, multiply 500 sq. ft. by 0.17 ft. to give 85 cubic feet. Finally, you can convert this to cubic yards, the common unit for selling soil amendments, by dividing 85 cubic feet by 27 (there are 27 cubic feet in one cubic yard). The answer is 3.15 cubic yards. So, you need to purchase 3 cubic yards of material for the 20-ft. x 25-ft. garden. After spreading the material, work it into the soil with a rototiller or shovel. Sprinkle your fertilizer (about 10 pounds of 5-10-10 for this example), rake it in, and you're ready to plant.
Adjust the amount of humus in following years (never exceeding the two inch depth per year) based on the garden's productivity. Have a soil sample analyzed every three to five years and apply fertilizer, lime and organic matter based on the test results.
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Pruning Roses
Early April is a good time to prune your roses. Remove all dead wood. Cut canes back to just above good outward-pointing buds on live, green wood. Check the center of the stem. It should be nearly white. If it's brown or tan, continue to cut small increments until the center is white. Also, take out weak stems, twiggy growth, and any stems showing canker spots. Remove canes that have been broken or damaged by insects or diseases and remove the weaker of two canes that may be rubbing. When you're finished, your pruned rose may have just 3 or 4 canes and look like a group of thorny sticks!
When pruning, use sharp pruning shears to make clean, diagonal cuts. Be sure to clean up all rose leaves and stems.
Fertilize your roses now with approximately 2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row or 100 square feet of garden bed.
More information on pruning roses.
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Fertilizing House Plants
Just like the greening that is taking place outdoors, most houseplants are showing new signs of life this time of year. Once new growth is observed, fertilizer can be applied following label directions. A complete soluble fertilizer is best. If most of your indoor plants are in soilless media, there are fertilizers specially designed for use in soilless media. Slow release, pelleted fertilizers are convenient, but if you tend to keep plants dry, you'll experience uneven release of nutrients from the slow-release particles.
Do not apply fertilizer to dry soil, but only when the growing medium is moderately moist. Don't be tempted to push growth by increasing the strength of the fertilizer. If you're determined to try something other than what's recommended on the label - be frugal and apply a more dilute mix.
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Mowing the Lawn
Mowing the lawn is the most time-consuming activity of lawn care. The correct mowing height has a major impact on the quality of your lawn. We recommend mowing the lawn to a height of 2 ½ inches. Exceptions to the rule are the first and last mowings of the season, lower the blade one notch for these cuttings. It is also advisable to raise the blade one notch during the heat of summer months.
Mowing frequency is important. Try to never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade at any one time. If you maintain a 2 inch height, mow the grass when it reaches three inches and cut off one inch. This will eliminate the need to bag the clippings. The clippings will decompose rapidly and supply nutrients for the lawn. If the lawn grows taller due to rainy weather, cut it back to the 2 ½ inch level in a series of steps. Less stress will be put on the lawn in this manner.
And, before mowing the first time this spring, be sure to rake the lawn well and remove all foreign objects.
Achieving a healthy lawn involves proper mowing , fertilizing and watering.
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Caring for Spring-flowering Bulbs
After your tulips and other spring-flowering bulbs have flowered, cut the flower stalk off close to the base of the plant and place it in the compost pile. Fertilize the plants with 5-10-10 at a rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet or 100 feet of row. Do not remove or disturb the leaves until they are completely dead and dry. This will allow the bulbs to replenish themselves and produce more flowers next spring. Annuals can be planted over the bulbs after the leaves have died back.
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Planting Raspberries
Raspberries are a tasty and nutritious treat that helps fill that "5 a day" requirement. Only two years are required to establish a raspberry planting in the home garden. Early spring, as soon as the soil can be properly prepared, is a great time for planting raspberries, and is preferred over fall-planting. Raspberries can be planted in hedge rows or hills. New plantings should be fertilized with two applications of a 10-10-10 or equivalent fertilizer at 10 and 40 days after planting.
Which raspberries should you plant? While the black raspberry is most popular in Ohio, followed by the red, raspberries come in purple and yellow-fruited cultivars as well. Red raspberries are first to ripen, followed by black, purple and yellow. For recommended cultivars and details on raspberry culture see "Raspberries for the Backyard Fruit Planting".
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Hardening Off Seedlings
The broccoli and cabbage plants that you've grown or purchased need to be hardened off before you plant them in the garden. They're accustomed to warm temperatures, fluorescent lights and plenty of moisture. In the garden, they'll be exposed to bright sunlight, cooler temperatures and drying winds. The goal is to get them used to these new conditions without slowing their growth.
When done properly, this hardening off process is a gradual one. Approximately a week before setting them in the garden, begin exposing them to the great outdoors. Start by placing the plants on a porch where they'll be exposed to indirect light and little wind. Leave them for about half a day and move them back indoors. The next day leave them on the sheltered porch all day. Bring them indoors at night if temperatures are going to drop below 50 degrees. The third day move them to direct sunlight for a few hours and then back onto the porch. Gradually increase their exposure to direct sunlight over the next few days. Keep them well watered to prevent wilting, and reduce the fertilize to ½ strength or none at all during this period.
A word of caution, do not expose young cabbage, broccoli or related plants to temperatures below 50 degrees during the hardening off process. They will be able to tolerate lower temperatures once they're properly hardened off, but exposure to low temperatures when they're young can cause poor development.
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Watering the Lawn
For best growth, your lawn needs one inch of water per week. If rain does not provide it, you must. The best time to water is in the early morning while the air is still and humid so most of the water will get onto the soil without evaporating. Watering at this time will also give the grass blades a chance to dry before nightfall. Run your oscillating sprinkler slowly until one inch has been delivered. This can be measured by placing straight-sided containers at various locations on the lawn and checking them periodically for the one inch depth of water. It's best for the lawn if it's irrigated once per week. Remember that the rule of thumb is to water the lawn weekly and deeply!
If the grass goes dormant due to a hot, dry summer, the crowns can be dept alive by applying one inch every 3 to 5 weeks. The grass will turn green again when cooler temperatures return in September.
Watering the lawn is only one part of achieving a high quality lawn. Other important jobs are mowing and fertilizing.
See Extension Fact Sheets HYG-1191-93 "Lawn Care Plans" and HYG-4029-96 "Managing Turfgrass Under Drought Conditions."
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Mulching
Various types of organic mulches, particularly shredded bark or bark chips, have gained tremendous popularity in the last few years. This is probably due more to the easy accessibility (sold at every corner gas station), than to awareness of the benefits of mulches. And yes, mulches do have many benefits: they help conserve soil moisture around trees, shrubs, and in vegetable and flower beds; they help suppress weeds; and they help moderate soil temperatures in the summer.
It's this last point that is of concern. While mulches help keep the soil and, therefore, plant roots cooler in the summer, heavy applications of mulch also slow down the warming of soils in the spring. The currently common practice of freshening the mulch on the first warm day of spring, can actually keep the soil around the plants cooler and delay the onset of new growth. Don't be in a hurry! It's best to wait until the soil has thoroughly warmed, at least to mid-May in the Cleveland area, to apply natural mulches to ornamental plantings.
Also see Extension Fact Sheet HYG=1083-96 "Mulching Landscape Plants."
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Sorrel
Sorrel is a perennial green that can be used for salads, soups, or in pesto. Garden sorrel is the best choice for home gardens as it spreads slowly and will not become a nuisance. Sorrel produces leaves from early spring through frost, and can even grow in partial shade.
The young upper leaves are milder in flavor and are used fresh in salads. The lower, stronger flavored leaves add a delicious accent to soups and casseroles. This is a great flavor for sauces and fish dishes too. For a tangy pesto, simply replace the basil with fresh sorrel leaves.
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Organic Fertilizers
Organic fertilizers, such as bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, fish emulsion and greensand have the following advantages over synthetic fertilizer, such as 5-10-10, in the vegetable garden:
1) Since they're not salts, they're less likely to burn your plants.
2) They stimulate soil bacteria activity. That is, they bring life to the soil! The bacterial activity is, in fact, necessary to convert the organic fertilizer to a form the plant can absorb.
And,
3) Since, they're organic, they will improve the tilth of the soil to a degree.
Organic fertilizers do have some disadvantages:
1) Since bacterial activity is necessary for the release of the nutrients that the plants can absorb, warm and moist soil conditions are best. Cool soils of spring and fall will not always provide the nutrients to your plants.
2) Since bacterial activity is necessary, time must be allowed for this "middle man" to do the job to release the nutrients. Synthetic fertilizers, on the otherhand, simply have to dissolve to become available.
And,
3) Organic fertilizers are not as widely available as the synthetic forms and are more expensive.
Fish emulsion and blood meal are organic sources of nitrogen. Use these to sidedress leafy greens. Bone meal is a source of phosphorous. Use this to fertilize your flower bulbs and root crops. Greensand is an organic form of potash. Cottonseed meal is a complete fertilizer that tends to acidify the soil somewhat.
Not all your garden problems are solved by fertilizer applications. Be sure to spread compost 2 inches deep over your garden soil and incorporate it into the soil before planting. Use good cultural practices in planting and maintaining your crops. Apply all fertilizers on the basis of soil test results and follow directions on the product.
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Pruning Hydrangeas
Before pruning your hydrangea, be sure to determine the type of hydrangea you are growing. Some hydrangeas flower on new wood and others on old wood. A plant that flowers on new wood sets buds on shoots that grow in the spring. These hydrangeas can be pruned in early spring. The plant will still form flowers because the flower buds form after growth begins in the spring. This type includes Hydrangea arborescens, the smooth hydrangea, and Hydrangea paniculata, the panicle hydrangea.
Hydrangea macrophylla, the bigleaf hydrangea, is the shrub with large, globe-shaped flowers that produce pink flowers in alkaline soil and blue flowers in acidic soil. This plant produces flowers on old wood. Prune this plant as soon as the flowers fade. Remove the weaker shoots and oldest shoots. Keep enough shoots to maintain the shape of the plant and provide flowers.
The oakleaf hydrangea should be lightly pruned to remove dead wood in early spring.
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Planting Wisely
In celebration of Earth Day, here are a few tips on how to plan your ornamental landscape plantings, as well as vegetable and fruit plantings, in a manner that will conserve our natural resources, and result in plantings that are in harmony with the environment.
1. Analyze the planting sight. Take into account sun and shade, the number of hours of each daily, and whether the site receives primarily morning or afternoon sun, if any. Is the site exposed to or sheltered from the wind? Are there low-lying areas or frost pockets?
2. Look at and analyze the soil. It's best to start with a soil test so you know the pH and fertility levels. Look for areas that are poorly drained. Take care of problem areas, if feasible, and add organic matter to improve soil structure.
3. Choose plants appropriate to the site(the point of doing steps 1 and 2). You don't have to limit yourself to native plants, as long as the plant is suitable to the area. Look for plants that are disease and insect resistant.
4. Purchase good quality plants from reputable nurseries and garden centers.
5. Use proper planting techniques. Steps 1-4 are for naught, if you slack off here.
6. Even "low-maintenance" plantings require some care. Keep plants watered when necessary, and fertilized and pruned according to their particular needs.
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Basic Gardening Tools
As with any new endeavor, getting started in vegetable gardening requires an initial outlay of cash in order to begin with the proper tools. If you're already an ornamental gardener with a perennial flower bed or well-tended landscape, few, if any additional tools are needed. Otherwise, here is a list of the basics:
■A square-ended spade and round-ended shovel for serious digging.
■A flat rake to break up large clods and level the soil surface.
■A hoe to weed, cultivate, and open seed furrows.
■A trowel for transplanting and applying dry fertilizers
■A garden hose, watering can, and perhaps a microirrigation system.
■Scissors or pruning shears for harvesting (a spading fork can be useful for harvesting root crops).
■A wheelbarrow, garden cart or wagon to haul tools, plants,etc.
■A file, sharpening stone, or diamond file to keep tools sharp.
When buying tools, don't skimp on quality. Well-made, well- maintained tools will last for years. Make sure tools feel good in your hand; check the length of shovel handles for comfort. Sharpen tools as needed, and keep them clean, especially when storing them for the winter.
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Planting Roses
Roses can be planted from early spring into early fall. Earlier planting is usually preferred. Spring or early summer planting allows plenty of time for good root establishment before winter. Selection of cultivar and availability of quality plants are also usually better early in the season.
Bare root roses should be planted in early to mid-spring before the new shoots start to develop. Potted roses can be planted anytime from spring to early fall. Spring planting of potted roses should be done after danger of killing frost.
Plant bare-root roses as soon as possible after receiving them. Unwrap plants from packaging and soak the root system in a bucket of water for about an hour before planting. Prune out any damaged, dead or broken stems before planting. Potted plants require little pre-planting attention, other than keeping them watered and in a sunny location until planting time. For additional information see the fact sheet "Planting Roses."
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Controlling Slugs
The slug is a pest of garden plants during cool, wet weather. Last year provided very favorable conditions for slugs throughout the spring, summer and fall. Normally, their damage subsides when hot, dry weather of summer arrives. If your vegetables or ornamentals begin looking ragged this spring and you see no signs of insects, the problem is probably slugs. To verify this, check your plants carefully very early in the morning or after nightfall as slugs are nocturnal and feed and are active at night.
Slugs are relatives of snails and clams. Since they're not insects, common insecticides are not effective control measures. Here are the best steps to take to protect your garden:
■First, remove all items in the garden that they can hide under during the day. This includes boards, rocks and mulches.
■Check them the next morning and destroy the slugs. Or, place a wet board in the garden, lifted about 1 inch off the ground, to see if any hide under there.
■A shallow pan of stale beer buried so its lip is at soil level will trap some slugs. Baker's yeast in water is also said to work.
■As a last resort, try the slug baits that are available. Spread them according to the directions on the label. Be sure to choose one containing metaldehyde for vegetable gardens. Methiocarb or mesurol is labeled only for ornamentals.
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Crabgrass
Now is the time to start preparing to control crabgrass in your yard. Crabgrass is a summer annual weed which means it will germinate in spring and early summer, produce seed in late summer, and die with the first frost in the fall. Crabgrass is very aggressive and will out compete the desirable grasses in your yard during the heat of the summer. The best way of controlling crabgrass is through good cultural practices that include:
■Mowing frequently at 2½ inches or higher.
■Irrigating deep and infrequently.
■Applying the majority of fertilizer to your lawn in the Fall.
Thorough cultural practices are the most effective crabgrass controls, herbicides may be necessary in some cases. Crabgrass can be controlled through an application of a preemergence herbicide early in the spring. When using preemergence herbicides, keep in mind:
■Closely read and follow all label recommendations.
■Apply these products early because they will not affect crabgrass already germinated. Early would be late March in southern Ohio and mid April in northern Ohio.
■Do not apply these products over newly-seeded areas or try to seed into areas where these products have been applied recently
■After application, apply enough water to move the herbicide off the leaf blades to the soil surface for maximum control.
■Try to purchase products that contain little or no nitrogen or those that contain mostly slow release nitrogen sources like sulfur- or polymer-coated urea.
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Perennials with Colorful Foliage
Most perennials are grown for their attractive flowers. They bloom for a few days or weeks, but are green, unassuming plants during the remainder of the growing season. There are, however, some perennials that have colorful foliage. These perennials add color to the garden from spring to fall. The following is a partial list of perennials that possess attractive foliage.
Hostas are the premier foliage perennial. There are hundreds of hosta varieties. The varieties differ in leaf color, leaf shape, plant size, and flower color. The foliage may be green, blue, gold, or variegated. The leaves may be long and narrow, nearly round, or heart-shaped. Hosta varieties vary in height from 2 to 3 inches to 3 to 4 feet. Most hostas grow best in partial to heavy shade.
Lungworts are clump-forming perennials that possess distinctive white or silver spots on their foliage. Lungworts do best in partial to heavy shade.
Sedums are fleshy-leaved perennials that are grown chiefly for their late summer bloom. However, several varieties have colorful foliage. Sedums are easy to grow, tolerate dry conditions, and have few pests. They perform best in full sun and well-drained soils.
Coral bells have been grown for many years for their showy flowers. In recent years, their popularity has soared due to the introduction of several new varieties with attractive foliage. One of the most popular varieties is 'Palace Purple.' 'Palace Purple' has maple-shaped leaves that are greenish-purple to dark purple. Plants are 15 to 18 inches tall with a similar spread. Coral bells perform best in well-drained soils and partial shade to full sun.
The Japanese painted fern is a clump-forming fern which grows 12 to 18 inches tall. The coarsely divided fronds are colored gray, green, and maroon. The Japanese painted fern prefers partial to full shade and moist, well-drained soils.
Other perennials with colorful foliage include blue fescue, snow-on-the-mountain, bugleweed, and wormwood.
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Planting a Grape Vine
The best time to plant dormant, bare-root grapevines in our area is early spring (late March and April). If planting must be delayed for several days after purchase or their arrival in the mail, moisten the packing material around their roots, place the plants in a plastic bag, and store them in a cool root cellar or garage.
Before planting grapevines, soak their roots in water for two or three hours. Make the planting holes slightly larger than the root systems of the plants. Set plants into the soil at about the level they grew in the nursery. The soil line mark and root initials indicate this level. Spread out their roots, then backfill with the original soil from the hole. Firm the soil around the roots as you backfill.
Plant grapevines 6 to 8 feet apart within the row. Plant vigorous varieties, such as Concord, 8 feet apart. Less vigorous varieties may be planted 6 feet apart. Space rows at least 9 feet apart.
After planting a grapevine, cut its strongest cane back to two or three strong buds; completely remove all other canes. If a trellis is not used during the first growing season, set a 5- to 6-foot stake into the soil near each grapevine and train the new growth to it. Tie the shoots loosely to the stake to avoid girdling the stems. Support the new growth until it reaches the 6-foot wire on the grape trellis.
Grapevines require 1 inch of water per week through the first growing season. Water each plant thoroughly after planting and every 7 to 10 days during dry weather.
When selecting grape varieties, consider winter hardiness, time of ripening, and your intended use (fresh, jam or jelly, juice, or wine).
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Start Warm-Season Vegetables Indoors
Now is a good time to start your warm-season vegetables indoors. Warm-season crops are those that do not tolerate any frost. These include tomato, sweet and hot pepper, eggplant, zucchini and summer squashes, winter squashes, cucumbers, and melons. The ones that need to be started as soon as possible are the peppers and eggplant since they're a little slow to germinate. Tomatoes can be started the first day of May. In that way, they will not be long and leggy when you transplant them into the garden. Start the melon and squash plants just two or three weeks before planting them in the garden.
All of the warm-season crops should be transplanted into the garden the last week of May or the first week of June. By then the soil is warm and the temperature at night is consistently above 50 degrees. Warm-season vegetables need warm weather and soil for best growth.
Soilless mix, dilute soluble fertilizers, clean cell packs and trays, and a bank of fluorescent lights will be necessary to start your seedlings. For the melons, squashes and cucumbers, use the largest peat pots you can find to start them indoors or, better yet, just plant the seeds directly into the garden in early June.
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Organic Gardening
What does organic gardening mean to you? There are as many different views on what organic gardening means as there are people. Some interpret it to mean old-fashioned, some believe it involves the use of homemade concoctions, others believe it means complete chemical-free gardening. The basic meaning of organic gardening is that it relies on cultural practices and natural products rather than the use of synthetic or petroleum-based fertilizers and pesticides. Crop rotation, cultural weed control, and integrated pest management for insect and disease control are emphasized and implemented.
Many people have a picture-perfect image of their flower beds, vegetable gardens, lawns and landscapes. And why not, advertisers certainly don't show us nature's imperfections. Organic gardeners tolerate small amounts of damage or imperfections. "Weeds" may be present in their lawn. However, they may also be enjoying dandelion greens for dinner. The clover in their lawn may have been planted to help provide nitrogen. Their apples may have some dimples or tracks through them. These situations are tolerated by organic gardeners.
Fertile, well drained soil is the basis for organic gardening. Fortunately here in Ohio many of our soils start us off on the right foot. However, we cannot garden continually in the same area without returning organic matter to the garden. Compost improves the soil's physical properties. Composted animal manures as well as green manure crops also improve the soil. Fertilizers are used by organic gardeners if there is a nutrient deficiency. The difference lies in the types of fertilizers used. Organic fertilizers such as bat quano, blood meal, bone meal, fish emulsion, cottonseed meal, greensand, rock phosphate and soybean meal are organic, naturally occurring fertilizers.
Weed control is accomplished through repeated shallow tilling. As weeds begin sprouting, the soil is surface where they dry up and die. As desirable plants grow, they shade out additional weed growth. Organic mulches are also used to prevent weed seed germination, conserve water, and eventually help build the soil as they decay.
Organic gardeners select plant varieties carefully. Disease resistant varieties are important as is crop rotation and garden sanitation. The most difficult area of organic gardening is insect management. Cultural controls such as hand picking, non-chemical insect baits, release of beneficial insects, and organic pesticides are used to control pests that reach damaging levels.
The source for this was Iowa State University.
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Ground Covers
Most every home landscape includes some type of ground cover. Ground cover is a term that is used to describe a wide variety of plant species, such as Kentucky bluegrass, periwinkle, and spreading juniper. Ground covers are perennial plants , meaning those that live for more than two years. Ground covers include both herbaceous plants (those that die back to the ground each year) and woody plants (those that retain some above-ground portions through the winter). The functions of a ground cover include controlling soil erosion, blending together various landscape elements such as trees and shrubs, adding color through the seasons, preventing weed growth, and of course, simple adding beauty. Turfgrass, such as Kentucky bluegrass, is probably the most commonly used ground cover in Ohio. But there are over 100 different species of plants that can be useful as ground covers in our area. The key to successful use of ground covers is matching the plant to the desired functions you want it to perform and the existing site conditions.
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Controlling Tomato Blights
Tomatoes are the most popular crop in the home vegetable garden. While tomatoes are relatively easy to grow, foliar diseases often occur in the home garden. Early blight and Septoria blight are the two most common foliar diseases of tomato. Early blight produces brown spots (up to 1/2 inch in diameter) on infected leaves. Concentric rings of darker brown often appear in the leaf spots. Septoria blight produces small brown spots (approximately 1/8 inch in diameter) with tan or gray centers and dark edges. Both diseases cause heavily infected leaves to eventually turn brown, die, and fall off. Lower leaves are infected first with the diseases progressing upward during the growing season. Wet spring and early summer weather favors development of early blight and Septoria blight. Defoliation may be severe when favorable weather conditions exist.
Early blight and Septoria blight overwinter on plant debris left in the garden. Fungal spores are splashed onto the foliage by raindrops or splashing water. A wet leaf surface is required for the spores to invade the plant tissue. Home gardeners can help reduce blight problems on their tomatoes by following these tips:
■Select stocky, healthy plants at a garden center or greenhouse. Unfortunately, there are no tomato varieties resistant to the tomato blights.
■Plant your tomatoes in a different location in the garden each year.
■When planting tomatoes, space plants approximately 3 feet apart. Adequate spacing allows
good air movement and promotes rapid drying of plant foliage.
■Grow tomato plants in sturdy, wire cages or stake them.
■In mid June, apply a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch around each tomato plant. Shredded leaves,
dry grass clippings, and straw are excellent mulches. The mulch reduces the splashing of
fungal spores onto plant foliage. Placing the mulch around plants in mid June allows the soil
to warm up in the spring.
■Avoid wetting tomato foliage when watering. Apply water directly to the ground around
plants with a soaker hose or slow running hose. If a sprinkler must be used, water in the,
morning so the foliage dries quickly.
■While cultural practices may help control tomato blights, fungicides may be needed. Select a product labelled for control of tomato blights and apply it according to label directions. Remember, most fungicides are only preventative in nature.
■If blight occurs, remove and destroy infected leaves as they appear. Prompt removal of
infected leaves may slow the progress of the, blights.
■At the end of the gardening season, remove and destroy all infected tomato plants. Clean up and dispose of as much tomato plant debris as possible.
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House Plant Pests
Scale insects, mealybugs and whiteflies are commonly found on plants in the home or greenhouse. All are sap-feeding insects that can weaken plants and cause poor, stunted growth. Death of infested plants occurs only in severe cases.
Houseplant insects may create an annoyance caused by large quantities of a sweet, sticky liquid waste product called honeydew that is excreted as the insects feed. Honeydew can make a sticky, shiny mess on the plant and nearby furniture and floors. A black fungus called sooty mold may grow on the honeydew.
Scale insects have a tan to brown shell-like covering or scale that protects the insect's body. Scales may be from 1/16 to 1/4 inch in diameter and are usually found on the stems and/or leaves. Some scales are hemispherical in shape, while others are oval and flat. Mealybugs appear as white tangles of cotton on the leaves or stems. A common location is the slim, protective gap at the junctions of stems and leaves.
Houseplant insects are difficult to control. There is no easy, simple, one-shot cure. One possibility is to pick off individual scales and mealybugs or gently scrub (or rub) the insects loose from the leaves and stems. This is a laborious task that works only on small, large-leafed plants. Dabbing each insect with an alcohol-soaked cotton swab is another possibility on lightly infested plants.
Sprays can be used for houseplant insect control. Success will depend upon thoroughness and persistence. Insecticide sprays (aerosols or hand pump sprayers) made just for houseplants are available at garden centers. Insecticides must be applied thoroughly, repeatedly and persistently (weekly for a month or more) to get good control. Always apply pesticides according to label directions.
Granular insecticides that you add to the soil of infested houseplants seem to have very limited effectiveness and their use is discouraged because of toxicity concerns. On those plants that regrow after pruning, removing the heavily infested stems and treating the remainder is a possibility. Finally, unless the plant is particularly valuable, many people find it best to throw away infested plants before the pests spread to other houseplants.
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Physiological Disorders of Applesreturn to: |top|
Selecting Bedding Plants
When purchasing flower or vegetable bedding plants, select short, stocky plants with dark, evenly green foliage. Avoid tall spindly plants. Smaller transplantsbecome established in the garden more quickly than larger ones. Smaller plants are also more productive. Short, stocky, six-week-old tomato transplants, for example, will produce more fruit than larger tomato transplants that have already started blooming. When selecting bedding plants, big is usually not better. Vegetable bedding plants should not have fruits or flowers. Flowering plants may have a few open flowers, but should have many more unopened buds. When placing the plants in the garden, remove opened flowers and place them in the compost pile.
Lift a plant carefullty from its container. The roots should be white and not so numerous that the soil ball cannot be seen. Brush the foliage of the plants. If insects fly away, you're advised to shop elsewhere.
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Flowering Crabapples
There are few plants that create greater intrigue or visual impact during all four seasons than the flowering crabapple. In the spring all eyes are enticed with delicate colors offered by emerging leaves and buds. Unopened flower buds may hint of one color and as flowers open, other hues are revealed in a spectacular floral display. As flowers fade the rich foliage offers another subtle contribution to the landscape.
As autumn arrives crabapple foliage and fruit transform to match the vibrant colors of an artist's palette. Falling leaves reveal the glorious color of the fruit. The snow of winter accents fruit, branches, and tree shape. It is no wonder crabapples are called "jewels of the landscape."
For a copy of our fact sheet go to: Selection, Care, and Use of the Ornamental Crabapple.
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Beets
Beets are popular in the home garden because they are relatively easy to grow and practically the whole plant can be eaten. Beets can be grown for their tasty roots of different shapes, sizes and colors. Young greens can be eaten raw in salads. Older greens can be cooked. The greens are even more nutritious than the roots.
Beets prefer a cooler climate although they are tolerant of heat. Temperatures of 60 to 65 F and bright sunny days are ideal for beet plant growth and development. They can withstand cold weather short of severe freezing, making them a good long-season crop. Beet seeds can be planted in the Cleveland area from mid-April through early August.
Beets prefer loose, well-drained soils but will tolerate a wide range. Remove stones and other debris to improve root quality. They prefer a pH of 6.2 to 6.8 and will tolerate 6.0 to 7.5. Fertilizers and lime are best applied using soil test results as a guide. Arrangements for soil testing can be made through your local Extension office. A fertilizer with the analysis of 5-10-10 can be applied at the time of seeding.
The beet seeds are actually beet fruits and contain several seeds. So, thinning the crop is generally necessary. To avoid this task, look for monogerm seeds or sow the seeds 4 - 6 inches apart to give plenty of room for all the seedlings to develop.
Beets can be harvested at any time in their growth cycle. Greens are best when four to six inches tall. Beet roots are generally most tender after growing for 40 to 50 days. The best size is between 1-1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. As beets get larger, they tend to become more fibrous.
For more information, see OSU Extension factsheet Growing Beets in the Home Garden.
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Dividing Herbaceous Perennials
Herbaceous perennials are commonly divided for three reasons: to control size, to retain vigor, and to propagate a prized perennial. Vigorous perennials may grow so rapidly that they choke out neighboring plants in the flower bed. Other perennials decline in vigor if not divided at the appropriate time. One of the easiest ways to propagate a prized perennial is to divide the plant into two or more smaller plants.
The best time to divide perennials varies with the plant. A general rule is to divide perennials the season after they flower. For most, this is the spring or fall. Before dividing your prized perennials, do a little research to find the best time for this task.
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Clover Mites
Clover mites sometimes invade homes in enormous numbers, in early spring and late autumn, overrunning floors, walls, drapes, window sills and furniture, even occasionally getting into beds and clothing. If crushed, they leave a reddish stain quite noticeable on linens, curtains, walls and woodwork. They are a nuisance by their presence but do not bite humans or animals, transmit disease nor feed on household furnishings or pantry supplies. Skin irritation may be caused in sensitive persons. They live outdoors feeding on various plants.
Clover mites are about 1/30 inch long (smaller than a pinhead), oval-shaped, reddish-brown to olive to pale orange or sometimes green-brown after feeding. They are eight-legged with the front pair of legs very long, protruding forward at the head. Young are smaller and bright red. Also, eggs are bright red. Crawling mites are sluggish, slow-moving and normally invade the home where the sun is warmest at south, southwest and east side of the house.
Mites can be found infesting homes from November through June and again in the autumn months.
To prevent clover mites in or on your house, remove all grass and weeds from around the house foundation perimeter, leaving a bare strip 18 to 24 inches wide, especially on the south, southwest and east sides of the building. Mites will not cross bare, loose soil as readily as grassy surfaces touching the foundation. This bare strip can be planted with flowers which are unattractive to these mites. Be sure to seal cracks and gaps or other points of entry with caulking compound, putty and weather stripping around foundations, windows and doors. Use tight fitting screens on windows and doors.
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Composting
Composting can help protect the environment, save money, and improve your soil at the same time.
Composting is a practical and convenient way to handle yard trimmings such as leaves, grass, thatch, chipped brush, and plant cuttings. It can be easier and cheaper than bagging and compost also improves your soil and the plants growing in it. If you have a garden, a lawn, trees, shrubs, or even planter boxes, you have a use for compost.
Compost returns organic matter to the soil in a usable form. Organic matter in the soil improves plant growth by: stimulating the growth of beneficial microorganisms, loosening heavy clay soils to allow better root penetration; improving the capacity to hold water and nutrients particularly in sandy soils; and adding essential nutrients to any soil. Improving your soil is the first step toward improving plant health. Healthy plants help clean air, conserve soil, and beautify landscapes. Why not start a compost pile this year?
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Gardening in Containers
Many gardeners do not have the space or energy to garden on a grand scale. They may be limited by the boundaries of their property, or limited by time and energy. But, they can still have a garden that is colorful, productive, and adds to the enjoyment of life. Why not garden in containers? Many containers can function as suitable gardens with slight modification; a simple hanging basket, window boxes in an assortment of styles and materials, an old clay pot to an even older and more decrepit army boot, a worn out bathtub or a discarded toilet - you are limited only by your imagination and creativity!
Containers are available in a wide range of materials and styles to match the style of the house, garden, or planting scheme. These containers can range from expensive jardinieres to old, cast-off containers that were stashed and forgotten in the attic. Explore the possibilities; scour garden centers and pottery shops for potential container candidates, but also explore your property for items that might serve as unique containers.
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Controlling Black Spot on Roses
Round black spots with fringed margins on leaves or stems of roses usually means the plant is infected with the fungus that causes black spot. On some varieties, yellowing may show up around the spots. These symptoms are often seen on the lower leaves first. Infected leaves will drop off and may leave the plant almost completely defoliated except for a few leaves that have recently grown at the tip of the canes. Such plants are badly weakened and may die over the winter.
Some varieties of rose are less susceptible. If your interest in roses is just beginning, look for resistant varieties whenever possible.
The fungus survives the winter in fallen leaves. Raking and removing these leaves each fall may provide some control. Avoid watering the plants by splashing water on or about the leaves. Plant in sunny locations where plants will dry quickly after watering, rains, or dew. A fungicide spray program will be necessary to control the disease and will need to begin as soon as new leaves appear in the early spring.
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Plant Those Cool-Season Crops!
Now is the best time to get out in your garden and plant cool-season vegetable crops. A cool-season crop is defined as a vegetable that grows best with temperatures of 60 to 65 degrees F. Cool-season crops can tolerate light to moderate frosts, but are usually intolerant of high summer temperatures. Direct seeding of most cool-season crops can be done with the exceptions of broccoli and cabbage which will do better started as transplants.
Vegetables that can be direct seeded as early in April as soil conditions include onion, leek peas, and spinach.
Wait until mid-April to direct seed beets, carrots, Swiss chard, lettuce, kale, collards, kohlrabi, mustard greens, radish, rutabaga, and turnip. Plant your broccoli, cabbage and early cauliflower transplants after April 15.
Covering the leafy vegetables with row cover fabric will protect them from root maggots, cabbage worms and flea beetles that will soon be finding our gardens.
Plant parsnip seeds in May. Plant Chinese cabbage seeds in late May.
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Sweet Corn
One of the delights of summer is fresh sweet corn. Ears of standard sweet corn varieties retain their quality for only 1 or 2 days in the garden as the sugar is quickly converted to starch. And, standard sweet corn varieties don't store well once harvested.
Sweet corn breeders have overcome these shortcomings by developing high sugar varieties, such as sugary enhanced and super sweet types. Both types are sweeter than the standard sweet corn varieties. They may also be harvested and stored over longer time periods as they are slower to convert sugar to starch.
The super sweet corn varieties do have drawbacks. Yields of the super sweet types are generally lower than the standard sweet corn varieties. Poor germination often results when super sweets are planted before the soil is warm in mid to late May. Super sweet varieties must be isolated from sugary enhanced, standard sweet corn, popcorn, and field corn. Cross-pollination will destroy the quality of both. The kernels will be tough and starchy. Isolation may be achieved by planting super sweet corn types at least 250 feet from other types of corn and by avoiding prevailing winds. Cross-pollination may also be avoided by planting the various types so they mature at different times. There should be a minimum 14 day difference between silking/tasseling dates.
The sugary enhanced varieties produce ears with sweet, tender kernels. The harvest and storage periods are slightly longer than the standard sweet corn varieties. Seeds of sugary enhanced varieties possess greater vigor and germinate more readily than super sweet types. It's generally recommended that sugary enhanced varieties be planted 1 week later than standard sweet corn varieties. Sugary enhanced varieties should be isolated from field and popcorn. Isolation from standard sweet corn varieties is encouraged although not necessary.
The source for this was Iowa State University.
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Lettuce
Lettuce varieties can be loosely categorized into four groups: crisphead, butterhead, leaf, and romaine. Each group has its own growth and taste characteristics.
Crisphead lettuce is probably the most familiar of the four. It is characterized by a tight, firm head of crisp, light-green leaves. In general, crisphead lettuce is intolerant of hot weather, readily bolting or sending up a flower stalk under hot summer conditions. For this reason, plus the long growing period required, it is the most difficult of the lettuces to grow in the home garden.
The butterhead types have smaller, softer heads of loosely folded leaves. The outer leaves may be green or brownish with cream or butter colored inner leaves.
Leaf lettuce has an open growth and does not form a head. Leaf form and color varies considerably. Some cultivars are frilled and crinkled and others deeply lobed. Color ranges from light green to red and bronze. Leaf lettuce matures quickly and is the easiest to grow.
Romaine or cos lettuces form upright, cylindrical heads of tightly folded leaves. The plants may reach up to 10 inches in height.
Much work has been done to develop varieties which are heat tolerant. These varieties are known as summer crisp or Batavian-type lettuces.
For the backyard garden, leaf, butterhead and romaine types are recommended in order of ease of production.
Direct seed lettuce after April 15 in the Cleveland area. Sow again in August for a fall crop. Seedlings can be started 3 - 4 weeks early indoors and then hardened off before transplanting to the garden.
For more information, see the OSU Extension factsheet Growing Lettuce in the Home Garden.
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Lime for the Home Garden
Nearly every homeowner is aware of the importance of applying lime to the home lawn. However, few probably have a complete understanding of why liming can be an important aspect of the home lawn care program, how to determine if liming is needed, and how one should go about applying lime to the lawn.
Lime is applied to the soil of home lawns to increase the soil pH. Soil pH, a measure of the soil's acidity, can directly influence the vigor and quality of the home lawn. When the pH is below 7.0, the soil is said to be acidic; when above 7.0, it is alkaline. For turfgrasses used in Ohio home lawns, a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic) is ideal.
When the soil pH drops below 6.0, a number of nutrients necessary for proper growth become less available for use by the turfgrass plant. These include the following: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, calcium, magnesium, and molybdenum. As these nutrients become less available, the lawn's color, vigor, and ability to resist (or recover from) heat, drought, or traffic stress will be reduced. Applications of enough lime to raise the soil pH above 6.0 can increase the availability of these nutrients, thus making it easier to maintain the quality and vigor of the lawn.
Note that an excessively high soil pH greater than 7.5 is just as undesirable as a low pH. When the pH exceeds 7.5, such nutrients as nitrogen, phosphorus, iron, manganese, boron, copper, and zinc become less available for use by the turfgrass plants in the lawn. The result may be a less vigorous, unhealthy lawn. Over-application of liming products may cause the development of alkaline soil conditions.
The only way to determine whether or not liming is needed, and how much lime to apply, is through the results of a soil test conducted at a state or commercial soil testing laboratory. A soil test kit or pH probe used by the homeowner, or at the local garden center, to test soil pH may indicate the need for liming. However, these simple tests do not allow one to determine how much lime is needed to correct the acidic condition. The reason is that individual soils can differ greatly in the amount of lime required to raise the pH to some specified level between 6.0 and 7.0. This amount of lime for a particular soil is designated as the lime requirement on soil test reports.
For soil testing,we recommend the University of Massachusetts Soil Lab. The basic fee is $10 and their report will tell you how much lime, if any, and fertilizer is needed to provide the right amount of nutrients for your plants.
While the information contained in this deals with lawns, it also applies to gardens.
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Pesticide Formulations for Fruit Crops
Even experienced gardeners are sometimes confused by the array of pesticides and special formulations available and the need to select the right materials. Pesticides may be available in one or more formulations. Pesticides used on fruit crops are most commonly sold as wettable powders, which are meant to be mixed with water, then sprayed on the crop. If the active ingredient makes up 50 percent of a wettable powder product, it is called a "50W" or "50WP." Liquid concentrates are also meant to be mixed with water, then sprayed on the crop; the active ingredient usually ranges from 12 percent to 50 percent of the product. Dusts are ready to apply as purchased; they are not mixed with water, and they usually contain 1 percent to 10 percent active ingredient.
For more information see Controlling Diseases and Insects in Home Fruit Plantings.
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Planting Trees
Planting is one of the most important cultural practices that determines success or failure of tree establishment. Transplanting is not successful until the tree returns to a normal growth rate. This transplant recovery period normally takes three years, but may range from 2-8 years. To get the most satisfactory performance from trees, attention must be given to planting details. Using quality plants and following good cultural practices such as watering, pruning and fertilizing will not compensate for poor planting techniques or poor plant selection.
The usual planting seasons are spring and fall. However, container-grown trees and some balled and burlapped trees can be transplanted anytime during the growing season if proper watering practices are followed.
General planting steps are as follows:
1. Measure the height and diameter of the rootball or root spread.
2. Dig the hole 2-3" shallower than rootball or root depth. The hole diameter should be 2 to 3 times the diameter of the rootball or root spread.
3. Set the tree on undisturbed solid ground in the center of the area. The tree should be planted 2-3" higher than it was in the nursery due to Ohio's heavy clay soils.
4. Backfill with a mixture of two parts soil from the planting hole and one part organic matter.
5. Use water to pack or settle the soil around the rootball to secure the plant.
6. Form a saucer-shaped depression around the tree so that water is directed down through the roots or rootball rather than around the rootball.
7. Water thoroughly. Add soil to sunken areas and smooth. Reshape the saucer in a few days after the soil surface dries.
8. Mulch with 2 to 4 inches of mulch such as woodchips or compost.
9. Trees should be pruned to remove broken, damaged or dead branches. Be careful not to remove any more than one third of the leaf-bearing surface at a single time. The natural shape of the plant should be retained.
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Planting Potatoes
Potatoes can be grown successfully in Ohio gardens, but they require more care and attention than most other vegetables. The potato has specific soil requirements, and thorough insect and disease control is necessary. A good yield would be 150 to 175 pounds of usable potatoes from 100 feet of row. Practices are suggested here to aid in obtaining a high yield of quality potatoes.
A well-drained, fine sandy loam soil, high in organic matter is preferred. If heavy clay or clay loam soils are used, drainage problems should be corrected and organic matter content improved by growing cover crops or adding aged manure or compost. Be cautioned, however, that manure may increase the incidence of potato scab.
Many varieties exist. Choose one that best suits your cooking needs. Whichever variety is selected, use certified disease-free seed. If you have time, place the seed potatoes outdoors in the sunlight so the eyes will turn green. Place them on a picnic table or sunny porch. Protect them from frost. You can also place them under your grow lights indoors. This greening process will take a few weeks, but will get the plant off to a faster start after planting.
Some feed and garden stores sell B-size seed-small tubers weighing 1-1/2 to 2 ounces. These tubers should not be cut before planting. If 4 to 6 ounce or larger tubers are used, cut them so that each piece is block shaped, about the size of an ice cube and contains at least one good eye or bud, and weighs about 1-1/2 ounces. Cut them one day before planting. Allow the pieces to air dry to cure the cuts. No fungicide is necessary.
Plant the seed in trenches 6 - 12 inches deep (depending on how well your soil drains) and cover with an inch or two of soil. The seed pieces should be spaced 9 to 12 inches apart in rows 28 to 34 inches apart. Nine to 12 pounds of seed will be needed for each 100 feet of row when 1-1/2 to 2 ounce seed pieces are planted 12 inches apart.
As the plants appear above the soil, cover them with another inch or two of soil. When they appear again, do the same. Continue until your trench is filled. Then as the plants continue to grow, hill them up by pulling soil up around them. Doing this creates more sites for potato formation. Remember that the potatoes you harvest will always be above the depth that you planted the seed potato.
For more information, see a copy of the OSU Extension factsheet Growing Potatoes in the Home Garden.
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Russian Sage
Russian sage is a plant that perennial gardeners should consider. This sturdy plant is characterized by its upright and shrub-like shape, slender stems and finely-cut silvery-gray leaves, which are aromatic and resistant to the browsing of deer.
Russian sage is best planted where it will have room to grow to its mature size of three to five feet tall and three to four feet wide without being crowded. It needs full sun and average soil that drains well. Soft, lavender-blue flowers appear in the late summer and remain attractive into the fall. The stems are covered with white pubescence which contrasts nicely with the flowers. Purple coneflower, Sedum Autumn Joy and Verbena bonariensis are great companion plants.
The Russian sage's strong, upright shape provides a presence through the winter months, standing through wind and weather. As spring approaches, the stems should be cut back to the base to encourage new growth. Russian sage is relatively maintenance free once it is established. Few insects, if any, will eat the foliage.
Information in this teletip was produced by Michigan State, Colorado State and OSU Extension.
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Selection and Care of the Easter Lily
A popular symbol of Easter is the trumpet- shaped, white, fragrant flowers of the Easter lily. Select a compact plant with dark green leaves, 1 or 2 open flowers, and several unopened buds of different sizes. These plants should bloom for 2 or 3 weeks in the home if given good care.
Easter lilies prefer moderately cool temperatures. Recommended daytime temperatures are 60 to 65F with slightly cooler night temperatures. Avoid drafty locations. Place the Easter lily in bright light, but out of direct sunlight. If the pot is wrapped in decorative foil, punch a hole in the foil at the bottom of the pot for water drainage and place a saucer underneath the pot. Water the Easter lily when the soil surface becomes dry to the touch. Water the plant thoroughly until water flows out the bottom of the pot. Discard the excess water that drains into the saucer.
As the flowers open, remove the yellow anthers before the pollen starts to shed. Removal of the anthers prolongs the life of the flower and prevents the pollen from staining the white petals. Remove the flowers as they wither. After flowering, the Easter lily can be discarded or saved and planted outdoors in the perennial garden.
If you want to save your Easter lily, place the plant in a sunny window after flowering. Continue to water the plant when needed. Fertilize once or twice a month with a dilute houseplant fertilizer solution. Plant the Easter lily outdoors when the danger of frost is past. Choose a well-drained, sunny site. When planting, place the bulb about 6 inches deep. The original plant will die back within a few weeks of bloom. At this time it should be cut back to the soil surface. New growth will emerge by summer. Lucky gardeners may be rewarded with a second bloom in September. Others will have to wait until next June. The lily may survive and bloom in the garden for several years if heavily mulched in the fall. Several inches of straw provides adequate protection. Remove the mulch in the spring.
The source for this was Iowa State University .
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Staking Trees
Staking or guying newly-transplanted tree is a common landscape practice. While this technique is sometimes called for, many times it is unnecessary. Small trees up to two inches in diameter rarely require staking, while larger plants may or may not require staking.
Some people stake trees because they like the appearance of staked trees. In areas of high prevailing winds, staking may very well be necessary to keep the plant upright. And certainly if a plant is deflected by wind after transplanting, it should be staked to protect against such a reoccurrence.
Other reasons normally given for staking include the need to protect against vandalism, although some research has found that vandalism can be increased by staking. Stakes also have the ability to protect trees from lawnmowers and other types of equipment that could cause injury. Short stakes strategically spaced around the trunk can provide the same protection, however, without guy wires.
In research measuring the effect of rigid supports on staked trees, unstaked trees were found to have greater trunk diameter than their staked counterparts. Unstaked trees also had greater trunk taper, meaning that the trunk increased in diameter more rapidly, and were lower in overall height while having bigger root systems. As the installed price of trees may increase from 15 to 30 percent because of staking, the cost of this procedure should be weighed against the benefits. Staking is also not without risk to the plant itself.
For more information, request a copy of the OSU Extension factsheet Staking and Guying Trees.
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Termites
Typical signs of termite infestations include swarming of winged adults in the spring and occasionally autumn. A "swarm" is a group of adult male and female reproductives that leave their nest to establish a new colony. Swarming occurs when a colony reaches a certain size. Emergence is stimulated when temperature and moisture conditions are favorable, usually on warm days following rainfall. Other signs of termite presence include "pencil-size" mud tubes constructed over the surface of foundation walls, mud protruding from cracks between boards and beams, and hollow sounds from infested wood when it is tapped, or extreme softness when probed with a knife. Termites feed slowly and there is no need to panic. A few weeks or months may be needed to determine whether the infestation is a do-it-yourself treatment or one that is complex, requiring a commercial, licensed pest control firm. Consider getting two to three estimates, and be cautious of price quotes that are substantially lower or higher than the others.
Swarmers have straight, bead-like antennae, a thick waist, and a pair of long, equal-length wings, that break off easily. The presence of winged termites, or their shedded wings, inside a home should be a warning of a termite infestation. They can be differentiated from adult winged ants that have elbowed antennae, constricted waists, forewings are larger than the rear wings (unequal size), and not easily detached.
In most cases, once a termite infestation has been found, control measures are best accomplished by a professional pest control firm rather than a do-it-yourself treatment. (Homeowners seldom have the experience, availability of pesticides and equipment needed to perform the job effectively.) Deal only with a licensed, certified pest control firm having an established place of business and a good professional reputation. Ideally the firm will belong to a city, state or national pest control association. Get at least three competitive estimates before signing a contract for control measures.
For more information on termites, request a copy of the OSU Extension factsheet on Termites.
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